ON THE REMBO RIVER
A QUEER CANOE.—ON THE REMBO.—WE REACH THE NIEMBOUAI.—A DESERTED VILLAGE.—GAZELLE
ATTACKED BY A SNAKE.—ETIA WOUNDED BY A GORILLA.
 THE sun is hot; it is midday. The flies are plaguing us; the boco, the nchouna, the ibolai are hard at work, and the
question is, which of these three flies will bite us the hardest; they feel lively, for they like this kind of weather,
and they swarm round our canoes.
I wish you could have seen the magnificent canoes we had; they were made of single trunks of huge trees. We had left the
village of Goumbi, where my good friend Quengueza, of whom I have spoken before, and the best friend I had in Africa,
Our canoes were paddling against the current of the narrow and deep River Rembo. You may well ask yourselves where is
the place for which I am bound. If you had seen us you might have thought we were going to make war, for the canoes were
full of men who were covered with all their war fetiches; their faces were painted, and they were loaded with implements
of war. The drums beat furiously, and the paddlers, as we ascended, were singing war-songs, and at times they would sing
praises in honor of their king, saying that Quengueza was above all kings.
Quengueza and I were in the royal canoe, a superb piece of wood over sixty feet long, the prow being an imitation of an
immense crocodile's head, whose jaws were wide open, showing its big, sharp, pointed teeth. This was emblematic, and
meant that it would swallow all the enemies of the king. In our canoe there were more than sixty paddlers. At the stern
was seated old Quengueza, the queen, who held an umbrella over the head of his majesty, and myself, and seated back of
us all was Adouma, the king's nephew, who was armed with an immense paddle, by which he guided the canoe.
THE ROYAL CANOE.
How warm it was! Every few minutes I dipped my old Panama hat, which was full of green leaves, into the
 water, and also my umbrella, for, I tell you, the sun seemed almost as hot as fire. The bodies of the boat paddlers were
shining with the oil that exuded from their skin.
If you had closely inspected our canoes you would have seen a great number of axes; also queer-looking harpoons, the use
of which you might well be curious about. We were bound for a river or creek called the Niembouai, and on what I may
call an African picnic; that is to say, we were going to build a camp on the banks of that river, and then we were to
hunt wild beasts of the forest, but, above all, we were to try to harpoon an enormous creature called by the natives
manga, a huge thing living in fresh water, and which one might imagine to be a kind of whale.
The distance from Goumbi to Niembouai was about fifteen miles. After three hours' paddling against a strong current we
reached the Niembouai River. As we entered this stream the strong current ceased; the water became sluggish, and seemed
to expand into a kind of lake, covered in many places with a queer kind of long tufted reed. For miles round the country
looked entirely desolate. Now and then a flock of pelicans were seen swimming, and a long-legged crane was looking on
the shore for fish.
At the mouth of the Niembouai, on a high hill, stood an abandoned Bakalai village called Akaka; the chief, whom I had
known, was dead, and the people had fled for fear of the evil spirits. Nothing was left of the village but a few
plantain-trees; the walls of the huts had all tumbled down.
How dreary all seemed for miles round Akaka. The
 lands were overflowed, and, as I have said before, were covered with reeds. Far off against the sky, toward the
east-northeast, towered high mountain peaks, which I hoped to explore. They rose blue against the sky, and seemed, as I
looked at them through my telescope, to be covered with vegetation to their very tops. These mountains were the home of
wild men and still wilder beasts. I thought at once how nice it would be for me to plant the Stars and Stripes on the
highest mountains there.
As we advanced farther up the river the mountains were lost sight of, and still we paddled up the Niembouai. Canoe after
canoe closed upon us, until at last the whole fleet of King Quengueza were abreast of the royal canoe, when I fired a
gun, which was responded to by a terrific yell from all the men.
Then Quengueza, with a loud voice, gave the order to make for a spot to which he pointed, where we were to land and
build our camp. Soon afterward we reached the place, and found the land dry, covered with huge trees to protect us from
the intense heat of the sun, from the heavy dews of night, and from slight showers.
The men all scattered into the forest, some to cut long poles and short sticks for our beds; others went to collect
palm-leaves to make a kind of matting to be used as roofing. The first thing to be done was for the people to make a
nice olako for their king and myself.
Our shelter was hardly finished when a terrible rain-storm burst upon us, preceded by a most terrific tornado, for we
were in the month of March. By sunset the storm was all over; it cooled the air deliciously, for the heat had been
intense. At noon, under the shade of my
 umbrella while in the canoe, the thermometer showed 119° Fahrenheit.
We had brought lots of food, and many women had accompanied us, who were to fish, and were also to cook for the people.
The harpoons were well taken care of, for we fully expected to harpoon a few of the mangas.
The manga canoes were to arrive during the night, for the canoes we had were not fit for the capture of such large game.
In the evening old Quengueza was seated by the side of a bright fire; the good old man seemed quite happy. He had
brought with him a jug of palm wine, from which he took a drink from time to time, until he began to feel the effects of
the beverage, and became somewhat jolly. His subjects were clustered in groups around several huge fires, which blazed
so brightly that the whole forest seemed to be lighted by them.
I put my two mats on my bed of leaves, hung my musquito nets as a protection against the swarms of musquitoes, then laid
myself down under it with one of my guns at my side, placed my revolvers under my head, and bid good-night to Quengueza.
I did not intend to go right to sleep, but wished to listen to the talk of the people. The prospect of having plenty of
meat to eat appeared to make them merry, and after each one had told his neighbor how much he could eat if he had it,
and that he could eat more manga than any other man that he knew, the subject of food was exhausted. Then came stories
of adventures with savage beasts and with ghosts.
We had in company many great men. The chief of them all was good old Quengueza, formerly a great
war-  rior. After the king came Rapero Ouendogo, Azisha Olenga, Adouma, Rakenga Rikati Kombe, and Wombi—all men of
courage and daring, belonging to the Abouya, a clan of warriors and hunters.
We had slaves also; among them many belonged to the king—slaves that loved him, and whose courage was as great as
that of any man belonging to the tribe. Among them was Etia, the mighty and great slayer of gorillas and elephants. Etia
provided game for Quengueza's table; he was one of the beloved slaves of the king, and he was also a great friend of
mine. We were, indeed, old friends, for we had hunted a good deal together.
On a sudden all merriment stopped, for Ouendogo had shouted "let Etia tell us some of his hunting adventures." This
order was received with a tremendous cheer, and Etia was placed in the centre. How eager were the eyes and looks of
those who knew the story-telling gift of their friend Etia, who began thus: "Years ago, I remember it as well as if it
were but yesterday, I was in a great forest at the foot of a high hill, through which a little stream was murmuring; the
jungle was dense, so much so that I could hardly see a few steps ahead of me; I was walking carefully along, very
carefully, for I was hunting after the gorilla, and I had already met with the footprints of a huge one. I looked on the
right, on the left, and ahead of me, and I wished I had had four eyes, that is, two more eyes on the back of my head,
for I was afraid that a great gorilla might spring upon me from behind."
We all got so impatient to hear the story that we shouted all at once, "Go on, Etia, go on. What did you
 see in the bush? Tell us quick." But Etia was not to be hurried faster than he chose. After a short pause, he continued:
"I do not know why, but a feeling of fear crept over me. I had a presentiment that something queer was going to happen.
I stood still and looked all round me.
"Suddenly I spied a huge python coiled round a tree near to a little brook. The serpent was perfectly quiet. His huge
body was coiled several times round the tree close to the ground, and there he was waiting for animals to come and
drink. It was the dry season, and water was very scarce, and many animals came to that spring to drink. I can see, even
to this day, its glittering eyes. Its color was almost identical with that of the bark of the tree. I immediately lay
down behind another tree, for I had come also in search of game, and I could do nothing better than wait for the beasts
to come there and drink.
"Ere long I spied a ncheri 'gazelle' coming; she approached unsuspicious of any danger. Just as she was in the act of
drinking, the snake sprang upon the little beast and coiled himself round it. For a short time there was a desperate
struggle; the folds of the snake became tighter and tighter round the body of the poor animal. I could see how slowly,
but how surely the snake was squeezing its prey to death. A few smothered cries, and all was over; the animal was dead.
Then the snake left the tree and began to swallow the gazelle, commencing at the head. It crushed the animal more and
more in its folds. I could hear the bones crack, and I could see the animal gradually disappearing down the throat of
 "Why did you not, Etia, kill the snake at once?" shouted one man, "and then you would have had the ncheri for your
dinner?" "Wait," replied Etia.
"After I had watched the snake for a short time, I took my cutlass and cut the big creature to pieces. That night I
slept near the spot. I lighted a big fire, cooked a piece of the snake for my meal, and went to sleep.
"The next morning I started early, and went off to hunt. I had not been long in the forest before I heard a noise; it
was a gorilla. I immediately got my gun ready, and moved forward to meet him. I crept through the jungle flat on 'my
belly,' and soon I could see the great beast tearing down the lower branches of a tree loaded with fruit. Suddenly he
stopped, and I shouted to him, 'Kombo (male gorilla), come here! come here!' He turned round and gave a terrific yell or
roar, his fierce, glaring eyes looked toward me, he raised his big long arms as if to lay hold of me, and then advanced.
We were very near, for I had approached quite close before I shouted my defiance to him.
"When he was almost touching me, I leveled my gun—that gun which my father, King Quengueza, had given
me—that gun for which I have made a fetich, and which never misses an animal—then I fired. The big beast
tottered, and, as it fell, one of his big hands got hold of one of my legs; his big, thick, huge fingers, as he gave his
death-gasp, contracted themselves; I gave a great cry of pain, and, seizing my battle-axe, I dealt a fearful stroke and
broke its arm just above the joint. But his fingers and nails had gone deep into my flesh, which it lacerated and tore."
Etia pointed to his leg, and continued: "I have
nev-  er gotten over it to this day, though it is so long ago that very few of you that are here to-night were born then. I
began to bleed and bleed, and feared that the bone of my leg was broken. I left the body of the gorilla in the woods,
but took its head with me, and that head I have still in my plantation; and at times," added Etia, "its jaws open during
the night, and it roars and says, 'Etia, why have you killed me?' I am sure that gorilla had been a man before. That is
the reason I am lame to this day. I succeeded in reaching my pindi (plantation), and my wife took care of me; but from
that day I have hated gorillas, and I have vowed that I would kill as many of them as I could."
The story of Etia had the effect of awakening every one. They all shouted that Etia is a great hunter, that Etia had
been bewitched before he started that time, and that if it had not been for Etia having a powerful monda (fetich), he
would have been killed by the gorilla.
Our story-telling was interrupted by the arrival of canoes, just built for the fishing of the manga. These canoes were
unlike other canoes; they were flat-bottomed, as flat as a board; the sides were straight, and both ends were
sharp-pointed, and, when loaded with two men, did not draw in the water, I am sure, half an inch. They glided over the
water, causing scarcely a ripple. There was no seat, and a man had to paddle standing up, the paddle being almost as
long as a man. These canoes were about twenty-five feet long, and from eighteen to twenty inches broad. In them were
several queer kinds of harpoons, which were to be used in capturing the mangas.
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