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LIVINGSTONE TRACES LAKE SHIRWA AND NYASSA
 BURTON and Speke had not yet returned from central Africa, when Livingstone left England on another expedition into
the interior, with orders "to extend the knowledge already attained of the geography of eastern and central
Africa and to encourage trade." Leaving England on 10th March 1858, he reached the east coast the following
May as British Consul of Quilimane, the region which lies about the mouth of the Zambesi. Livingstone had
brought out with him a small steam-launch called by the natives the Ma-Robert after Mrs.
Livingstone, the mother of Robert, their eldest child. In this little steam-launch he made his way up the
Shire River, which flows into the Zambesi quite near its mouth. "The delight of threading out the meanderings
of upwards of two hundred miles of a hitherto unexplored river must be felt to be appreciated," says
Livingstone in his diary. At the end of this two hundred miles further progress became impossible because of
rapids which no boat could pass. "These magnificent cataracts we called the Murchison Cataracts, after one
whose name has already a world-wide fame," says Livingstone. Leaving their boat here, they started on foot for
the Great Lake described by the natives. It took them a month of hard travelling to reach their goal. Their
way lay over the native tracks which run as a network over this part of the world. "They are veritable
footpaths, never over a foot in breadth,
 beaten as hard as adamant by centuries of native traffic. Like the roads of the old Romans, they run straight
on over everything, ridge and mountain and valley."
THE MA-ROBERT ON THE ZAMBESI.
On 18th April, Lake Shirwa came into sight, "a considerable body of bitter water, containing leeches, fish,
crocodiles, and hippopotami. The country around is very beautiful," adds Livingstone, "and clothed with rich
vegetation, and the waves breaking and foaming over a rock, added to the beauty of the picture. Exceedingly
lofty mountains stand near the eastern shore."
No white man had gazed at the lake before. Though one of the smaller African lakes, Shirwa is probably larger
than all the lakes of Great Britain put together. Returning to Tete, the explorer now prepared for his journey
to the farther Lake Nyassa. This was to be no new discovery. The Portuguese knew the locality of Lake Shirwa,
and at the beginning of the seventeenth century Nyassa was familiar to them under another name. Landing at the
same spot on the Shire banks as before,
 Livingstone, with thirty-six Makololo porters and two native guides, ascended the beautiful Shire Highlands,
some twelve hundred feet above sea-level, and crossed the range on which Zomba, the residence of the British
Commissioner for Nyassaland, now stands. When within a day's march of their goal they were told that no lake
had ever been heard of in the neighbourhood, but, said the natives, the river Shire stretched on, and it would
take two months to reach the end, which came out of perpendicular rocks which towered almost to the skies.
"Let us go back to the ship," said the followers; "it is no use trying to find the lake."
But Livingstone persevered, and he was soon rewarded by finding a sheet of water, which was indeed the
beginning of Lake Nyassa. It was 16th September 1856.
"How far is it to the end of the lake?" he asked.
"The other end of the lake? Who ever heard of such a thing? Why, if one started when a mere boy to walk to the
other end of the lake, he would be an old grey-headed man before he got there," declared one of the natives.
Livingstone knew that he had opened up a great waterway to the interior of Africa, but the slave trade in
these parts was terrible, gangs being employed in carrying the ivory from countries to the north down to the
east coast. The English explorer saw that if he could establish a steamer upon this Lake Nyassa and buy ivory
from the natives with European goods he would at once strike a deadly blow at the slave trade. His letters
home stirred several missionaries to come out and establish a settlement on the banks of the Shire River.
Bishop Mackenzie and a little band of helpers arrived on the river Shire two years later, and in 1862 Mrs.
Livingstone joined them, bringing out with her a little new steamer to launch on the Lake Nyassa. But the
unhealthy season was at its height and "the surrounding low land, rank with
 vegetation and reeking from the late rainy season, exhaled the malarious poison in enormous quantities." Mrs.
Livingstone fell ill, and in a week she was dead. She was buried under a large baobab tree at Shapunga, where
her grave is visited by many a traveller passing through this once solitary region first penetrated by her
The blow was a crushing one for Livingstone, and for a time he was quite bewildered. But when his old energy
returned he superintended the launching of the little steamer, the Lady Nyassa. But disappointment and
failure awaited him, and at last, just two years after the death of his wife, he took the Lady
Nyassa to Zanzibar by the Rovuma River and set forth to reach Bombay, where he hoped to sell her,
for his funds were low.
On the last day of April 1864 he started on his perilous journey. Though warned that the monsoon would shortly
break, he would not be deterred. And after sailing two thousand five hundred miles in the little boat built
only for river and lake, "a forest of masts one day loomed through the haze in Bombay harbour," and he was
safe. After a brief stay here, Livingstone left his little launch and made his way to England on a
But no one realised at this time the importance of his new discoveries. No one foresaw the value of
"Nyassaland" now under British protectorate. Livingstone had brought to light a lake fifteen hundred and
seventy feet above the sea, three hundred and fifty miles long and forty broad, up and down which British
steamers make their way to-day, while the long range of mountains lining the eastern bank, known as the
Livingstone range, testify to the fact that he had done much, even if he might have done more.